AIM Wiring

    Thank you Ahmed Khan, Shaun Cottingham and Andrew (Ultima) for helping build these lists!

    AIM 14 Pin Connector 
    • Yellow: labeled "Reserved" (do not connect)
    • Red & Black terminated: connect to Red/Black on Rio harness
    • White Can 1+: connect to engine harness A (Tan).
    • Blue Can 1-: connect to engine harness G (Tan/Black).
    • CAN Exp: connect to RIO
    • USB connector: run to the luggage bin

    AIM 23 Pin Connector
    Analog connections (these are different from Ultima's instructions)
    Connect the following sensor wires which run through the right side luggage box out the back.
    • CH1: connect to Fuel Pressure sensor
    • CH2: connect to the Oil Pressure sensor
    • CH3: connect the 2nd temp sensor (same as water one) to the oil tank
    • CH4: connect to Water Temp sensor (fit the sensor to the H tube on the heater line)
    • CH5 (black/green wire): connect to the same color wire on the Fuel Gauge connector (#29) Note: Light/Green, Black & Red/Black are not used.
    • CH6-CH8: not used
    • Speed -1: connect to the AIM speed sensor (provided that bolts to the drive shaft)
    • RPM (white wire): connect to Engine Harness #3 (white wire). This is the Engine Speed.
    • Short red, white and blue wires: not used

    RIO connector
    • 9 pin plugged into Ultima harness (#37)
    • Black & Red cables: connect to the AIM 14 pin harness (red & black)
    • Short Pink/Green and Black connect to the Hazard warning light
    • Long pink/green: connect to pink/green raptor wire. See Evolution AIM document for details.
    • Brown/Red & Orange/Red: connect to Fog Light switches/wires*
    • Black/Red: connect to Side Light switches/wires*
    • * They have extra connections that piggy back/spare cables that match the colors.
      There will be no spare and all are used as per the connections list.

    • Black dual switch box:
      Closest to coil: connect black wire with blue end
      Further from coil: connect wire #28 red/grey
    • Note: #28 green goes into open port on red/orange/yellow connector (upper right). Remove the wire's plastic cover to fit down hole.
    • Black wire with round end: Ground
    • Metal circular coil: Extend as needed to get cabin temp.

    Engine Harness #1
    • Smaller white connector: connect to GM Fuel Pump Power Control Module
    • Larger blue, black & grey connectors: connect to ECU (matching colors)
    • 2 grounds: Ground em!

    Engine Harness #2
    These are detailed in "Wiring Connection List v5(RS).pdf" #85 (Page 11). View Diagram
    • Fan 1 (Green): connect to #85 Black/Orange
    • Fan 2 (Blue): Not used
    • 12V Switched (Pink): connect to #85 White/Grey

    Engine Harness #3
    These are detailed in "Wiring Connection List v5(RS).pdf" #86 (Page 11). View Diagram
    The only required connection is to White (RPM). The rest are optional
    • Tan: Not used
    • Brown/White: Not used
    • White: connect to AIM 23 Pin Connector RPM (white wire). This is the Engine Speed.
    • Green/White: Not used
    • Light Green: Not used
    • Tan/Black: AIM 14 Pin Connector Blue Can 1-
    • Tan: AIM 14 Pin Connector White Can 1+
    • Orange: Not used
    • Pink: Not used
    • Black: Not used

    Wiring Loom Unlabeled #1 (Headlights)
    • #14k - connect to Headlight Flash Relay
    • Looking at pins (4 on left, 1 on right):
      • Top Left: Black/Blue
      • Top Right: Purple
      • Middle Left: Red/Blue
      • Middle Center: Both Blue/White (tie together)
      • Bottom: Blue

      Wiring Loom Unlabeled #2 (Ignition Switch)
      • #43 - connect to ignition switch
      • Looking at back (2 on top, 1 left, 1 right, 1 center, no bottom):
        • Top Left (15): White
        • Top Right (75): White/Yellow
        • Left (50): White/Red
        • Right (83): Not used
        • Center (30): Brown

        Wiring Loom Labeled
        • #29 Fuel Gauge: connect to AIM 23 Pin
        • #32 Starter: connect to starter button
        • #37 Warning Panel: connects to RIO connector
        • #45 Cig Light / Accessory: can be used for interior lights, wireless charging, backup camera, etc.
        • #46 Radio Connect: connect to radio
        • #85 ECU: connect to "Engine Harness #2" (see above)
        • #87 Canopy: connect to canopy warning lights
        Connect to Dash Lights/Switches
        • #35 Rad Fan Warning Light (I didn't use)
        • #38 Side Light Switch
        • #39 Head Light Switch
        • #40 Fog Light Switch
        • #41 Window Wiper
        • #42 Brake Fluid Warning (I didn't use)
        • #44 Door Mirrors
        Not used with AIM.
        (Data pulled from ECU)
        • #26 Tachometer
        • #27 Speedometer
        • #30 Fuel Crossover
        • #31 Oil Temp
        • #33 Volt Meter
        • #34 Water Temp
        • #36 Oil Pressure
        • #86 Bulkhead



        • My LT4 ECU didn't have mounting holes. Fortunately ICT makes a really nice billet mounting tray.
        • I installed a set of distribution blocks in the luggage container. It's super convenient and clean with the ECU, amps, and rearview mirror/camera all needing connections.

        Front Bulkhead Power


        • A friend recommended I install a breaker as an extra safety. In the case of a malfunction (e.g. starter locks and tries to draw too much power), this prevent a dangerous about of power. I got this one on Amazon for $27. Also, it's super easy to turn power on/off when you need to work with the wiring.
        • I needed power for 4 wires: starter, wiring loom, engine harness and stereo (distribution block). I added a 2 post terminal to handle this. The battery connects to the breaker and that connects to the 2 post terminal. Notice the left post has the starter cable so the power doesn't need to flow through the terminal.



        • If you install speakers by your knees (e.g. 6-1/2"), cut the holes when you're doing the paneling. It's much easier then.
        • I installed JBL Fuse subwoofers behind my seats. They barely fit and should add some good bass!
        • Most stereos disable the "Setup" menu unless you have the hand brake on. Some manufacturers will let you bypass it if you simply ground the wire, but some require the brake to be pulled twice (to avoid simply grounding). My Alpine deck wanted the latter action so I bought this bypass switch on eBay for $10. It was super easy to wire up and works great.