LT4 Charge Cooler & Engine Cooling


    • I was lucky to receive detailed instructions, advice and photos from fellow builder Shaun.

      Refer to photos "Template" and "Steps" under Resources.

      1. This is the top fuel hose. Try and keep this as high on the panel as possible. This can run parallel to the rivets in the panel and can run straight across.
      2. This is the second fuel hose.
      3. This should be next. This is the bottom rivnut that will hold that pump. The pump spans over the top of the two fuel lines.  If you don’t attach it now, you many not have room for it if you start attaching other lines.
      4. This is the H-Pipe for the heater connections. The port for the AIM temp sensor faces down (if you have one). The larger hose connection should face to the right and be on top. Continue to run the hoses all the way across the firewall and secure with hose saddles. These hoses will ultimately connect to the right-hand side of the engine, just above the A/C compressor, with GM quick connectors.
      5. These are the clamps that hold the large tube that extends your left-hand side radiator hose. You’ll need to mock up the location of where these go, with the engine in the car. There’s rubber straps that come with the kit. Cut those to size and insert into the clips.  They keep the tube from moving in the clip.
      6. This is the thinner, bottom fuel hose. The tendency here is to make it look pretty and run parallel to the upper fuel hoses.  The problem is, if you attach these before you fit your large clamps, your large clamps may not fit where you need them. Once the clamps are located, you can run this hose the best way possible.
      7. This is the large (bottom) fuel hose.  This needs to be as far down as possible. You’ll have a “hump” where the fuel line will rise to clear those cables, then drop back down.

      - Pay attention to the hose clamp sizes. They are labeled. Match the sizes on both ends of your hoses, accordingly.
      - You will have to purchase some fittings (hose connectors, AN fittings).
      - You will need to cut/trim some of the silicon hoses in order to get your hoses in the right spot. This is normal. This is why you'll need to do a mockup with the engine in.
      - Hose size matter. If you have to force a hose onto a fitting, you have the wrong fitting, or the wrong hose size.
      - For AN hoses, get an AN adapter for your vice.
      - If you use an adjustable end wrench to tighten AN fittings, put tape on the jaws otherwise your fittings will look get all scratched up. Or purchase a set of aluminum AN wrenches.  
      - Hand tighten all fittings onto the aluminum fuel tanks first! They are EXTREMELY easy to cross-thread. If they don't easily screw on by hand, stop, back out and try again. Once on, snug with a wrench. Thread seal is recommended.
      - For the heat exchanger pump mount, I put a silicon spacer between the metal spacers provided and the pump. This gave me some extra clearance over the fuel lines, as well as some anti-vibration.
      - Use the Ultima pump (not the GM pump) as the GM pump mounting was awkward. The Bosch pump that Ultima supplies works just fine. However, you'll need to re-wire the GM loom to use it. I purchased a pre-made pigtail online.
      - When you remove the GM flywheel off the engine, oil will start to leak out. Either drain the engine first, or make sure you have a pan ready. Before you install the oil port adapter plate, you'll need to drain the engine, anyways.
      - For the PCV valve setup, I suggest you order the GM part number listed in the crate engine manual. Ultima does supply two of the quick connectors that you'll need (if you ordered the breather pot and dry sump tank system from Ultima). However, the 3rd port is missing. Buy the GM part and remove the needed fittings.
      - When you install the engine, you must remove the alternator.
      - The fuel pump module cannot be installed in the side pod unless you want to cut and extend the wires.  This must be mounted in the engine bay.
      - The big black fuse box must be mounted closest to the engine bay.  The wires won't reach if you try and install it forward of the ECU (at least without cutting and splicing to extend the wires).
      - There's an ICT "Gen V - LT Billet Purge Solenoid Delete Plug" that plugs up the hole on the engine and removes the connector associated with it. This allows for more room for the supercharger water inlet quick connects.
      - You might need the bottom A/C condenser pigtail.

    Dry Sump


    • Reservoir: The step is pretty straightforward. It's important you position the ports in the correct locations and use the proper fittings in the various locations.  
    • When making the oil lines, watch the distance for the oil lines to the dry sump tank so they don’t interfere with crankshaft pulley.
    • The oil adapter (made by GM) was designed to match the contour/shape of the engine. IN on left, OUT on right. 

    Fuel System


    • This was an easy step. The fuel filter barely fits in the clamps (I had to push down hard for it to pop in). In fact, I had to sand my clamps down a little so the clasps would close and lock. Very strange. It's also weird they included rubber for padding/anti-vibration. Be sure to connect both fuel lines before marking and drilling holes to make sure everything reaches and fits.

    Air Conditioning


    • When installing the condenser, make sure it isn't too far back otherwise you won't be able to get the hose on. The top flat area should be visible so you can rivet a p-clamp into it.
    • The drier bracket can rivnut or riveted in. Just make sure it's secure.